🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.