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Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing enormous gilded pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Youngsters sit in a water feature imitating sea nymphs, and in the next room rests a speaking vegetable in a display case, beside a towering pile of bedding. This is the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), among the 1800s most beloved writers. I’m in the city of Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to explore Andersen’s lasting influence in his home town a century and a half after his passing, and to discover a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the local exhibition space honoring the writer, incorporating his original residence. An expert states that in previous versions of the museum there was little focus on the author's tales. The writer’s life was studied, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For visitors who travel to Odense looking for storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of Odense city centre, redirecting a major road, created the chance to reconsider how the renowned native could be commemorated. An international design contest gave Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the curators’ new approach at the core of the layout. The remarkable wooden museum with connected spiral spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “Our goal was to create a space where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we speak in the manner of the storyteller: with wit, satire and outlook,” explains the representative. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a challenge accomplished by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with height, size and numerous twisting trails in a surprisingly compact space.

The Author's Influence

The author penned multiple autobiographies and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition embraces this concept fully; frequently the opinions of his acquaintances or fragments of written messages are presented to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of events. “Andersen is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the curator. The effect is a fascinating swift exploration of Andersen’s life and art, thinking patterns and favorite stories. This is thought-provoking and fun, for grown-ups and children, with a extra underground imaginary world, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the actual city, the compact town of Odense is picturesque, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings colored in bright colours. The author's presence is all around: the road indicators display the author with his iconic formal headwear, brass footprints give a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this commitment culminates with the yearly storytelling event, which honors the author’s legacy through creativity, performance, theatre and music.

This year, the seven-day festival had numerous performances, many were complimentary. During my time in Odense, I meet artistic acrobats, ghoulish monsters and an writer impersonator narrating adventures. I hear contemporary performances and observe an incredible nocturnal display including athletic artists lowering from the city building and hanging from a mechanical arm. Still to come this year are lectures, hands-on activities and, extending the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s annual enchantment celebration.

Every excellent fairytale destinations require a palace, and the island features over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region

Pedaling Through History

Similar to most of Denmark, bicycles are the ideal method to travel around in this town and a “bicycle route” winds through the city centre. Departing from the local hotel, I pedal to the free waterside bathing area, then beyond the city for a loop around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers relax with food here in the evening, or appreciate a tranquil moment catching fish, aquatic activities or swimming.

Returning to town, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the menu is based on author-inspired concepts and tales. The verse the national ode is featured when I visit, and owner Nils Palmqvist recites passages, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice commonplace in my time in Odense, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it feels as though narrating is constantly on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful enchanted locations require a fortress, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and estates around the area. Going on excursions from Odense, I visit Egeskov Castle, the region's most intact Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the personal dwelling of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I wonder if she can feel a pea through a mound of {mattresses