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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of fall. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a lovely flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which provide enhanced flavour to the strata of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot biryani? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and layer all components on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Add the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a separate dish and reserve (you'll use them later during the layering).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, blend in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Add the squash and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the temperature, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Rinse the basmati, then put it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon half the vegetable curry, then layer with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and garam masala, then top with the caramelized onions. Layer with the rest of curry mixture, then arrange the leftover grains. Finish with the rest of clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.

Seal with baking paper, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the rice. Take out of the heat, leave to rest, still covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and present with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Hindi term "achari" describes seasoning a preparation using pickling spices, and the combination contains mustard, fennel, fenugreek, cumin, asafoetida and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. This mixture also features in various types of curries and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel seeds in a mortar, roughly grind, then set aside. Put the oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a medium heat. Introduce the ground spices and the asafoetida, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the ginger, fry for a minute, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pot, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a little, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.